Volnay 'Les Grands Poisots', Louis Boillot 2018 (magnum)

The 2018 vintage has turned out very well indeed at this small domaine, Louis Boillot and son Clément opting to begin their harvest in late August. Yields are between 20% and 30% lower than in 2017, and alcohol percentages range from the low-12s to the mid-13s. Everything reviewed here comes warmly recommended. As I wrote last year, while Boillot is an experienced vigneron, his first solo vintage for his own label was 2003, and perhaps that's why this address still flies under the radar. Or perhaps it's because helike his partner Ghislaine Barthodlacks a "collectible" grand cru to incite speculation. But with excellent old-vine holdings in top appellations, deft winemaking and a classical aesthetic, readers should take note. Plowed vineyards, de-stemmed grapes, classical cuvaisons and élevage in a moderate percentage of new barrels are the rudiments of the approach.